Cod Tongues, Screech, and Other Island Oddities

St. Anthony, Newfoundland

In case you’re wondering, here’s where we are – see the blue dot. On the northern tip of this godforsaken island. Even the timezone is odd – 1/2 hour ahead of Atlantic Central, so 2.5 hours ahead of KC. We were introduced 35 years ago to cod tongues ( fried tender upper mouths of codfish) when we visited the southern parts of Newfoundland. We have wondered since about the even more wind-swept desolation and Viking heritage of the northern peninsula and Labrador. And we recalled that the screech (newfie rum) was warm and comforting during the relentless cold, rainy days.

So yesterday we drove 300 miles north out of thriving Deer Lake, population 5300 to St. Anthony, an outpost fishing town dating from the early 1500’s. The drive? Pine trees, then tundra, then more pine trees, punctuated by a fishing village or two. Starkly beautiful, great walks and only a little rain.


Cod tongues for dinner were better than we remembered. More tomorrow about Lynn, a colorful 77-year resident of this hamlet.



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